Leaking Dnepr Fuel Tap Joy

so, from reading various forum posts/discussions, the leaky soviet fuel tap is a common issue. One that is most positively annoying thing to fix, as you probably need to go through the whole thing of drain the tank etc  blah blah.

anyway, here is a solution i found that works for me, and has never had a  problem since.

Also a  method to fix your fuel flow - (thanks to a member of the RussianIron forum (Serious Black)) helps when at the 'higher' end of the rev spectrum.

It goes something like this:

  • Drain tank of petrol. (drive around for sometime till it conks out or drain it the normal way both take some time)
  • Unscrew tap..
  • (here's one i made earlier. - had a dirty spare laying around to take photos of the process )

It would seem that generally the flow rate for one soviet petcock to another is not always the same. (i know unbelievable right). i think it just depended on how drunk the factory worker was when the original holes were drilled.

  • go through the process of removing all the bits and pieces
  • keep this chap to had, as you will need it in a bit..
  • remove the brass main stem (just pull it out - its only push fitted in...)
  •  yay
 
  • now remove the smaller brass tube (pull with pliers). place this in the bin. you don't need it.





  •  and now take off the bowl



  •  great.
  • have a little look down the hole. Its probably got a bunch of crap in it if its an old tap.
 
  •  take a 3.2mm drill bit and twirl it around in there. this should remove much of the rubbish.
  • now grab the main valve bit and pop it in, aligning it holes with its on position. (assemble taps flat handle as a guide for maximum on rotation)
  •  you will probably notice that your holes dont exactly line up. bummer, maybe thats why the flow isn't all that consistent. 
  • Lets fix it.
  •  take your 3.2mm drill bit(in a drill), clamp up you tap housing (with valve bit stillin) and drill out your hole.


  •  repeat this with a 3.5mm brill bit. (this one is a bit bigger than the original diameter. therefore increasing your flow)
  • now have a peer down the hole. 
  • looks good.
  • now remove the valve, and check out the state of the reserve hole in the housing. and then in the valve.

  • i cleaned mine out with the 3.2mm bit (by hand). it wasn't dirty and no need to make it bigger.
  • use compressed air (or give it a blow) to make sure there are no loose bits of metal or crap remaining in the housing or valve.


  •  put it all back together. (make sure the valve handle is correct orientation for reserve)
  •  yay
  • now get yourself some PTFE tape.   PTFE is basically everything proof so its safe to use for oil and petrol and will create a great long lasting seal.

  •  give you thread a few good wraps.
  •  get some copper or aluminum crush washers (of appropriate size)


  •  now screw that bugger in to your bike, making sure it threads correctly and the crush washer crushes.
  • enjoy the original leak free fuel tap*
* this worked for me. i cant guarantee this is 'sure thing' method, but all i can compare against is my own results. For me its fine, and the fuel flow is better. Basically i dont have a f*****g leaky fuel tap anymore so i am happy.


 On Another Note

 Finally got my new front brake plate, head gaskets, and cork valve seals. So i can upgrade my brakes and finally cull the minor oil leak i have from the base of the valves on the cylinders. Got new head gaskets because why not... new seals are aways a good idea.

then im off for an MoT and UK registration now seems closer than ever!


















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